Visiting Baja

Rancho Ancón is a spectacular house, anchored on top of a hill, halfway between La Paz and the town of La Ventana. The Rancho is only accessible by car, as it’s a 20-minute drive away from either one of these cities. However its isolated location is actually one of the house’s strongest characteristics. It transforms the hill into a remote private island, with a spectacular view that stretches out into endless blues and greens, to La Ventana, and beyond that, across the Sea of Cortez and Isla Cerralvo. With a mountain-view patio BBQ, well equipped kitchen, capacity to easily sleep 6, and a perfect WiFi connection, this is a wonderful place for small groups and families.

This unassuming, inexpensive little hostel at the far end of town might be one of the more interesting socially alive places to hang out. Found in one of the older fishermen districts of La Paz, which is still relatively untouched by the newer developments, Casa Esterito’s young travellers and local staff make for enthusiastic conversation and unrivalled local tips. Miguel, an alternative tourism student at the university here, and former freedive student of mine, was to a large degree, builder and creator of its Casa Esterito’s eclectic style and has infused it with a great vibrant energy.

The Mantarraya Outpost is a bed-and-breakfast located in the center of La Paz. It’s just a few blocks away from the Malecón, La Paz’ large waterfront walkway with uninterrupted views of the sunset, statues by Mexican artists celebrating the sea life and the town, and an array of popular restaurants and bars. Luisa, the host in charge of the Outpost, prepares freshly-squeezed orange juice, fruits, eggs and tortillas, the typical hearty Mexican breakfast, for guests every day. The Outpost consists of three quiet guest bedrooms, plus a private garden area for visitors to lie in hammocks and relax in the outdoors. It’s an intimate, home-like experience in the very heart of La Paz.

Casa Marysol, is a more upmarket (and urban) accommodation option bang in the center of La Paz. It’s literally a one-minute walk away from the Malecón, which means you can taste the salty sea air and watch the sun setting against the ocean from your bedroom balcony. The white-and-blue villa contains two bedrooms (each with a private bathroom and balcony), a roof deck, parking space and a backyard patio adorned with desert flora, a pool, a jacuzzi and a BBQ. Despite its many amenities, Casa Marysol is not without an eco conscience. The owner, Monica, has built rainwater capture basins for the house, in order to reduce water waste. She also uses only non-toxic cleaning materials and provides reusable grocery bags and recyclable bins for visitors.

Located only a few blocks from the very heart of la Paz, this boutique hotel is a treat for the design-minded. Keeping in line with the colonial character of the older residential area of La Paz, Posada Flores has a luxury ambiance with the classic modernism of a traditional Mexican hacienda. Its rooms are a creative combination of artesanal stonework, hardwood beams, and careful detail given to the choice of furniture and decor. If you want to finish your evening with a good mezcal and an unrivalled sunset you couldn’t find a much better location.

Named, ‘the aquarium of the world’ by Jacques Cousteau, la Paz lies on the southern shores of the Gulf of the Sea of Cortez, made famous by Steinbeck’s, ‘ The Log from the Sea of Cortez’. Once the pearling capital of the americas and its major industry through till the beginning of the 20th Century, for the best visibility, and clear, warm waters the most rewarding months for freediving in the Baja are from August to November.

Probably the most visited dive location in southern Baja, visitors will often encounter turtles feeding in one of the northern bays plus a breeding area specific to one type of mobula (small manta). The winter months, in particular from February to September is the time when the large whales – greys, Humpbacks and Blue – are most seen, although there are also resident transient Orcas around for most of the year.

Isla Cerralvo (also referred to as Jacques Cousteau Island) is the familiar local name for the 25 mile long desert island in the Mexican UNESCO Biosphere reserve. It’s more than a 2hr boat ride from la Paz and its sharp desert shores make it even more beautifully remote as a freediving spot. About 3 miles off the north shore of Cerralvo there is a rocky outcrop called la Reina, with a small sea lion colony which has gained popularity again in the last couple of years because of the giant pacific mantas.